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A protracted trek throughout the desert of northeastern Niger brings guests to some of the astonishing and rewarding sights within the Sahel: fortified villages of salt and clay constructed on rocks, besieged by the Sahara sands. Generations of vacationers have stood earlier than the “ksars” of Djado, wandering their crenellated partitions, watchtowers, secretive passages and wells, all of them testifying to a talented however unknown hand.