About eight months in the past we made the choice to discontinue our trench coat in favour of one thing easier and subtler. A couple of conversations with pals had introduced up the problem, repeatedly, of not having the ability to discover a actually fashionable however understated, single-breasted raincoat.
I had one coat in my wardrobe that fitted that description, nevertheless it had been designed by Drake’s again in 2017. It had a beautiful form to the physique, straight and clear, with a comparatively giant collar that framed the face properly.
I wore it principally with informal outfits, nevertheless it labored equally effectively for a knit and flannels too. The simplicity made it the coat I reached for on a heat however moist day particularly – it was the one one which felt proper over one thing like a T-shirt and denims.
So I started speaking to the Drake’s group about bringing in again, as a collaboration. They have been eager, which was pretty, and the result’s the ‘Rider’s Raincoat’ we’re launching at the moment, accessible on the PS Store.
I known as it the ‘Rider’s Raincoat’ as a result of I knew from speaking to the design group on the time, that the form had initially come from a classic horserider’s coat. That was what gave it the lengthy, straight lower and excessive vent on the again.
It had been modified and up to date after all, and in some ways this was symptomatic of why I appreciated the piece – it mirrored one in all my favorite intervals of Drake’s, when it felt like so many elements of a standard man’s wardrobe, from shetland sweaters to wire trousers, have been being made modern once more: made to be and proven to be related.
The fabric of the coat is a super-compact cotton twill, from an Italian mill that specialises in technical outerwear. It has the same waterproofing impact to the Ventile we’ve used previously, nevertheless it’s denser and sharper, contributing to the silhouette.
Though, over time I’ve discovered the fabric mellows and softens, fairly like a dense pair of workwear chinos. One of many benefits of getting worn this coat for a few years is I can communicate from just a little expertise.
There was one vital manner wherein I departed from my authentic, nevertheless, and that was the color. Relatively than go for the standard beige, I wished a darker shade that felt extra modern, and which I knew would work with a full vary of readers’ outfits, from sensible to informal, brown footwear and black.
I’m actually happy with the ensuing gray/brown. As I’ve tried to point out with these photos, it really works effectively with black and greys (and darkish navy too) making it an awesome workplace coat.
However it’s additionally good with denims, a T-shirt and a cap, as proven within the extra informal outfit. As I discussed in passing after we redid the ditch coat, a great reflection of the flexibility of a males’s coat is when it really works with each black and brown footwear – it means it does sensible and informal, on responsibility and off.
Even tan is sweet in opposition to the coat, definitely in equipment. My beloved ‘chestnut’ tote bag from Frank Clegg is carried in photographs above, whereas a lighter, extra English tan is proven within the alligator case beneath.
The fabric is very water resistant, each due to the dense weave and an immersive therapy (no spraying, no PFCs) that by no means must be reapplied. As we’ve mentioned previously, there’s at all times a trade-off between attractiveness of fabric and waterproofing, and nobody commuting to the workplace actually wants Gore-Tex. That’s for tenting or mountaineering, whenever you’re out for lengthy intervals of time and it’s tougher to dry out.
This dense twill has saved me dry even in heavy downpours – as we have had in London just lately – even with out taped seams. Once more, it is good to have the ability to communicate from expertise.
You may as well button the coat as much as the chin, use the throat latch if wanted, and belt for heat.
I personally put on the coat open, fixed with the highest two buttons, or with simply the second, relying on the safety required. Utilizing these two higher buttons is especially satisfying. The throat latch I hardly ever use, so within the photos I’ve eliminated it and buttoned it contained in the coat.
It is very important use the belt ultimately. I’ve watched so many guys attempt on raincoats and suppose they’re too huge within the physique. The complete level of a belted raincoat is to cinch it with the belt.
It’s huge within the physique so it suits over all the pieces, however most individuals don’t need that a lot of an A-line – so belt it across the entrance within the conventional manner, or cinch on the again with a easy knot (eg over-and-under, twice).
And mess around with it – cinch extra and fewer, discover what provides you some form with out being something near tight. There’s lots to play with in a raincoat; it’s a fertile floor for ‘the best way to put on’ as a lot as what to put on.
Another excuse I at all times appreciated this coat was the pocket set-up.
The angled hip pockets have a double entry, so you’ll be able to put your palms within the outer pocket but additionally attain by means of to the inner pockets to get one thing. I are likely to have issues like a hat, a pockets or keys in these pockets, and may get them simply if wanted, even within the rain.
However then there’s additionally a phone-sized pocket behind the fly entrance, like the Wax Walker. So you’ll be able to extra shortly attain a cellphone or one thing else.
That jogs my memory, one of many little type issues I really like concerning the coat is the large, extensive fly entrance.
One thing about its width provides the coat such character. It belongs in a bunch of design touches that features:
- the dense rows of sewing on the belt
- the same rows on the collar stand
- the reinforcement across the sleeve seams
- the zig-zags on the collar
- the sharp overlapping vent
- and the locker loop on the again
They’re all little issues, however they construct up right into a uniquely interesting design. And like one of the best menswear, they’re all pushed by operate.
I can see some folks disliking the locker loop, however I actually like its character, and like utilizing it to hold the factor after a stroll within the rain, maybe on a hook contained in the door of a pub. It will be an excessive amount of on an advanced piece like a trench coat, however on this easy type it’s each sensible and characterful.
We determined to not do a lining with the coat largely on financial grounds. Having one within the trench coat at all times made it costly, and a few readers had stated that they’d have most popular to pay for simply the coat and make it extra reasonably priced. I wished to maintain this as near a thousand kilos as I might, and this was one of the best ways.
Different issues to notice are that Drake’s are stocking the coat, so it’s accessible to attempt on within the London retailer. It should even be with them after they maintain their pop-up in Paris this week, at 47 Rue de Montmorency, October 5-7. And it is going to be within the New York and Seoul shops early subsequent week.
The coat shouldn’t be a part of the PS outerwear accessible to attempt on at William Crabtree, who’re holding try-ons of all different coats by means of October.
The Rider’s Raincoat prices £995 plus VAT (£1195 within the UK) and is in the stores now on the PS Store, in sizes XS to XXL.
- Outer materials 100% ultra-dense cotton twill
- Tattersall lining in 100% cotton heavy shirting fabric
- Corduroy lining on collar and cuffs
- Offered-brass belt buckle
- Darkish-brown horn buttons
- Detachable throat latch
- ‘Move by means of’ double hip pockets
- Cellphone pocket within the fly entrance
- Made in Italy
- Simon is sporting a Medium/38 (UK chest measurement, 48 European)
- He might additionally put on a 40 (it might simply be just a little extra cinched in physique)
- We suggest trying on the chest measurement and evaluating to a raincoat you personal (greater than the shoulders or waist)
|X-Small (34)||Small (36)||Medium (38)||Massive (40)||X-Massive (42)||XX-Massive (44)|
|Centre again size||116.5||117.5||118.5||119.5||120.5||121.5|
Observe: As with most clothes, tolerance is round 1cm. Together with measurements to the closest millimetre does imply larger accuracy
- Not the best coat to change, or one you’d wish to change the type of a lot, however some adjustments are potential:
- Physique will be shortened by a great tailor, however not lengthened (although given the size, hopefully not required by many)
- Sleeves can’t be lengthened, however could possibly be shortened (identical restrictions as with different coats with wrist straps: can solely shorten a bit or would want to take away strap)
- Physique will be slimmed by means of the aspect seams, however once more wouldn’t suggest as would change the type, and you’ll cinch as a lot as you need with the belt