This feels nearly nostalgic. The ‘best knitwear’ was one of many first correct collaborations we did, six years in the past, with the wonderful Umbria Verde in Italy.
We discontinued it as a result of I wished to deal with collared knits and cardigans – the Dartmoor, the Most interesting Cardigan – and that felt extra like a spot out there.
However ever since, frequently and even continuously, affectionately and typically passionately, PS readers have written to say how a lot they cherished it.
The best crewneck was a wardrobe staple, a base layer to go together with all the things. It was nice for journey, as a result of it was light-weight and packed up so small. I keep in mind just a few clients snapping up the final dozen or so, to protect towards future wants.
Happily, PS is now an even bigger operation, and we are able to afford extra strains (the associated fee being largely advance fee, the price of holding inventory, and to a lesser extent storage). So we’ve introduced the crewneck again – initially simply in navy, however doubtlessly in additional colors if it proves in style.
And we’ve additionally restocked the collared Dartmoor this week – initially a collaboration with John Smedley, however now made to a better commonplace by Umbria Verde – together with a brand new black color (under).
So what was – what’s – so good in regards to the Most interesting Crewneck?
Most interesting wool, best gauge
The thought was that it will be each the best supplies and the best make.
Why? Properly, the best merino feels as smooth as cashmere, however is extra strong. When cashmere is knitted finely, it drugs extra and may lose form – that’s why positive cashmere knits normally have a silk factor, for energy.
For me, positive merino is a greater possibility. It seems sensible however matte, with none silkiness. Extra of a menswear staple.
Working with Umbria Verde, we may then knit that merino notably carefully. They use an tailored knitting mattress to knit at 37 gauge (the variety of needles per inch); Smedley’s positive knit, by comparability, is 30 gauge.
This denser knitting is what offers the crewneck such physique, a very beautiful drape, and makes it stronger. I don’t just like the idea of ‘stealth wealth’, however this matches that definition of one thing that’s superior however understated – everybody goes for cashmere as a result of it’s a label, however for a positive knit, merino is best (and no cheaper!).
Most interesting make
Simply as with the knitting, Umbria pulls out all of the stops with regards to the manufacture.
These little particulars elevate the product, however are additionally what the fabric deserves: there’s no level utilizing stunning fabric after which placing it collectively in something however one of the best ways.
Beneath are two examples. Within the first picture, word the be a part of between the physique and the sleeve. That is nearly twice as huge as on a chunk of normal knitwear and, because of this, thinner and flatter. As with the identical seam on a bespoke shirt, having it flatter (and curved) makes it extra comfy.
Second, have a look at the shoulder level within the second picture, the place the shoulder and two sides of the sleeve meet. On most knitwear there’s a arduous little knot, the place the yarn is folded again on itself. With Umbria, the purpose is flattened out and re-stitched, so the knot is eliminated.
As talked about again in 2017, that is work Umbria developed for its top-end clients, who’re mainly the luxurious manufacturers I nonetheless respect and would purchase from. It’s higher to not title them, however readers gained’t have arduous time guessing who.
The type
We’ve made one small change to how the Most interesting Crewneck is minimize, which is that the physique is now 2cm wider on all sizes.
To be trustworthy, the earlier iteration was fairly slim – slimmer than every other PS product – and this makes it slightly extra comfy in addition to extra in keeping with different PS objects.
As you may see from the pictures, it has a reasonably excessive collar – however nonetheless works properly with a shirt collar beneath, not strangling it. The knit has an extended rib on the underside (7cm), which I’ve at all times thought is a pleasant option to push physique proportions subtly in direction of the extra flattering. And the cuff is a contact longer too.
That’s has a single cuff, not like the Dartmoor, as I believe it matches the cleaner, stripped-back look of the crewneck and its use usually as a mid-layer.
Just like the Dartmoor, being a positive gauge makes it smarter than most knitwear. It’s due to this fact most at house with a wise pair of trousers – good for the workplace employee who needs one thing to put on as an alternative of a shirt along with his tailor-made strides or good chinos.
It may be worn with extra informal trousers, reminiscent of denims, however I might at all times err in direction of the smarter finish of any such class – an ecru denim or a darkish indigo one, in a neat minimize, not a baggier mid-blue with rips or heavy fades. It wouldn’t look fallacious essentially, you’re simply not taking advantage of the type.
In addition to carrying it by itself like that, indoors, I put on the crewneck as a layer below tailoring (as under) in addition to below extra informal outer layers like Tebas, fleeces, suede jackets and layered below shawl-collar cardigans.
As readers have usually commented, it’s an excellent layering piece – notably helpful presently of 12 months – and is nice for journey. It folds up small and solely weighs 150g.
Beneath, I are likely to put on a positive T-shirt, just like the PS Undershirt. It may be worn towards the pores and skin, however you’ll want to scrub it extra frequently and that takes extra care.
The complete particulars of the Most interesting Crewneck are listed on the backside of this publish, together with factors on care and upkeep.
I additionally want to say that the favored Dartmoor is again, with the navy, gray and olive restocked, and new color – black.
Readers most likely gained’t be shocked to listen to that that is the brand new iteration, notably as I’ve discovered knitwear one of many best methods to put on black. It’s a pleasant, much less basic various to navy with an entire vary of trousers – brown, olive, cream, navy, many shades of beige, all shades of gray – and may even be mixed with black trousers for a extra night look, as with the favored all-black look posted right here.
I must also say that we’ve needed to enhance costs on each the Dartmoor and Most interesting Crewneck on account of elevated prices from suppliers. That’s the one purpose, nonetheless, and people luxurious manufacturers talked about know promote this high quality of knitwear at over £500. (There’s an fascinating multiplier impact there – if larger manufacturers use larger multiples on their prices, they turn out to be much more costly comparatively as prices enhance.)
Particulars on the Most interesting Crewneck:
- Made with Loro Piana Want merino wool
- Knitted at 37 gauge by Umbria Verde in Italy
- Finely original and completed on all seams
- Weighs 150g, folds up small
- Price £225 plus VAT
Care:
- Typically hand wash or dry clear
- Might be machine washed on a cool, wool setting, however machines fluctuate, so solely really helpful with a machine that you just frequently wash woollen knits
- Brush with a smooth garments brush to take away lint and light-weight filth
- Though robust, that is nonetheless a positive garment, so deal with with care
- Don’t chuck into the underside of a bag or shove into an overcrowded drawer
- Equally, don’t pull arduous or quick when taking up/off (sounds loopy, however I’ve seen individuals rip on the factor)
Sizing:
- Suits reasonably slim, common size
- Simon wears a Medium, and is 6 foot, with a 39-inch chest and 33-inch waist
- However as ever, evaluate measurements under to a garment you have already got, fairly than start with physique measurements
- Mustn’t shrink or stretch/give over time
| Measurement | S | M | L | XL | XXL |
| Chest | 52cm | 54 | 56 | 58 | 60 |
| Shoulders | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 |
| Sleeve size | 63 | 64 | 66 | 67 | 68 |
| Entrance size | 64 | 66 | 68 | 70 | 72 |
