If you’re an ardent follower of vogue, then you realize that every vogue week metropolis has its personal character. This yr, the distinction between Milan Trend Week and Paris Trend Week was particularly evident, as the previous supplied horny and glamorous appears to be like, whereas the latter went all in on avant-garde and experimentalism. Listed below are a few of the variations (and similarities) between the 2 vogue cities for the Spring 2024 season.
MILAN FASHION WEEK SS24
Milan Trend Week could also be over, however the reminiscence of gorgeous collections and star-studded entrance rows linger on. The six-day occasion, which ran from September 19th to September 25th, showcased a few of the most influential and artistic designers on the planet. One of many important themes that emerged from MFW was a return to glamour, sensuality and class, however…with a contemporary twist. A few of the highlights included:
THE NEW TOM FORD
Peter Hawkings, the British designer who changed Tom Ford because the artistic director of his namesake model, made his debut with a set that stayed true to Ford’s signature type of smooth minimalism and hedonistic magnificence. The present featured velvet fits, silk blouses, leather-based coats, night sandals and crystal-embellished attire in a palette of black, white, purple and metallics. Hawkings additionally added some playful touches, corresponding to asymmetrical jackets, cropped tuxedos and satin knickers, worn over pantyhose. The gathering was a tribute to Ford’s legacy and an announcement of Hawkings’ personal imaginative and prescient for the way forward for Tom Ford. Some would possibly even name Hawkings, Ford’s mini-me.
CHANGING OF THE GUARD
Sabato De Sarno, the previous Valentino designer who took over as Gucci’s artistic director after Alessandro Michele’s departure, additionally made his first look on the Milan runway with a set that aimed to make individuals fall in love with Gucci once more. De Sarno centered on fluidity, lightness, and freedom, creating attire in sheer materials that contrasted with tailor-made fits and coats in Gucci’s iconic supplies. He additionally launched a brand new “it colour”, Gucci Rosso, a deep oxblood hue that evoked a way of retro sophistication. The gathering was a celebration of Gucci’s heritage and a mirrored image of De Sarno’s private type.
YOU’VE BEEN SLIMED
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continued their Prada collaboration with a set that explored the idea of craft and method. The present was set in an area full of slime that dripped from the ceiling, making a distinction between the natural and the synthetic. The garments have been equally juxtaposed, mixing formal silhouettes with floaty materials, printed fringe with floral patterns, and metallic equipment with delicate supplies. The gathering additionally featured some nods to Prada’s previous, corresponding to Peter Pan collars, shiny trenches and hand-carved bag clasps that reproduced a design from 1913. The gathering was an illustration of Prada’s innovation and excellence.
THE ART OF SEDUCTION
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the design duo behind Dolce & Gabbana, delivered a set that was all about seduction and glamour. The present was full of corset attire, tulle slips, lingerie units, barn jackets and flapper attire in satin, velvet, leather-based and lace. The colours have been wealthy and vibrant, starting from black and white to purple, pink, purple and gold. The equipment have been equally eye-catching, that includes crystal gildings, metallic fringe and classic baubles. The gathering was a tribute to Dolce & Gabbana’s signature aesthetic and a celebration of femininity.
Versace is likely one of the world’s most iconic and influential vogue homes, recognized for its daring, horny and glamorous type. For Spring 2024, the Home paid tribute to its founder Gianni Versace and his legendary designs from the early ’90s. The gathering was impressed by the autumn 1995 Versace and spring 1995 Atelier Versace collections, which have been marked by a ladylike magnificence and class.
One of many highlights of the present was the return of Claudia Schiffer to the runway, who modeled for Versace within the ’90s and have become one in all vogue’s authentic supermodels. Schiffer wore a pale-yellow lace embroidered metallic mesh slipdress that evoked the sensuality and glamour of Versace’s signature materials. The gathering additionally mirrored the present developments of the season, corresponding to brief and shorter shorts and skirts, checkerboard prints, pastel colours and flat ballerina sneakers. Versace additionally up to date its traditional Medusa-patterned silks into boxer brief and shirt units for women and men, including a contact of playfulness and luxury to the gathering.
Fendi celebrated its Roman roots and its modern imaginative and prescient for Spring 2024. Kim Jones, the creative director for couture and womenswear, mentioned he was impressed by Rome and the ladies who stay there. “In Rome, there’s an magnificence in ease and never caring what anyone else thinks—that’s actual luxurious. On this assortment, I wished to mirror that,” Jones wrote within the present notes.
The present featured fashions carrying fluid attire, tailor-made fits, knitwear separates and leather-based coats in a palette of black, white, purple, yellow and blue. The gathering additionally featured some references to Fendi’s previous, such because the double-F emblem, the puzzle print and the metallic mesh material. The gathering was influenced by Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 1999 present for the home and his minimalist method.
A FASHION INDUSTRY FIRST!
The closing of Moschino’s Spring 2024 Present. (Photograph Credit score: Vogue)
Up till now we thought we had seen all of the ‘firsts’ there have been to see within the vogue business, e.g., Black and ethic fashions showing on journal covers and racial & ethnic range, measurement inclusivity, the bodily handicapped and transgender fashions on the runway. We witnessed high-end designers like Karl Lagerfeld collaborating with H&M and different well-known designer collaborations with Goal. Then got here the ‘designer for the designer’ development, John Galiano at Maison Margiela and Raf Simmons at Jil Sander, adopted by the ‘visitor designer’ phenomenon, corresponding to Simone Rocha for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture and Colm Dillane for Louis Vuitton. And naturally the ‘movie star’ artistic director craze, the latest being Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton and Balmain x Beyoncé.
The Moschino model has at all times been the business’s most playful vogue home, recognized for its witty, colourful and irreverent type. After founder Franco Moschino’s demise in 1994, Rossella Jardini took the helm, adopted by Jeremy Scott who, for ten years, elevated the model’s standing. With the exit of Scott in March 2023, everybody puzzled who would exchange him, particularly since this yr marks the model’s fortieth anniversary. Properly, enter the period of ‘visitor stylist”.
Each fashionista is aware of that the position of ‘stylist’ has been given an enormous enhance, thanks partially to the primary ever CFDA “Stylist of the 12 months” award that went to Regulation Roach in 2022. So, in a daring first transfer for the style business, the Moschino model invited 4 outstanding stylists to reinterpret its archive to create the Spring 2024 Moschino assortment. Whether or not the model couldn’t get it collectively to rent a brand new artistic director in time for his or her Spring 2024 season or…maybe it’s a sign that stylists are actually the brand new act on the town. Regardless of the purpose, the home reached out to 4 stylists who paid tribute to the late Franco Moschino and his legacy of satire, subversion and pleasure. Stylists Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, and Lucia Liu every created 10 appears to be like that mirrored their very own private type and injected a few of Moschino’s signature parts.
The finale of the present featured 40 fashions carrying T-shirts with Moschino’s emblem, and raised funds for the Elton John AIDS Basis in reminiscence of Franco Moschino who died from AIDS in 1994.
PARIS FASHION WEEK
Paris Trend Week, which ran from Sep 25th to Oct 3rd is the grand finale of vogue month. This yr the Parisian runways have been filled with surprises, as many designers experimented with avant-garde ideas, supplies, and silhouettes, difficult the standard notions of magnificence and magnificence. Listed below are a few of the highlights from the Paris Trend Week Spring 2024.
A BALL OF FUN
Rei Kawakubo, the founder and artistic director of Comme des Garçons, is likely one of the pioneers of avant-garde vogue, and her newest assortment was no exception. Overcome by the state of the world as we speak, and the sensation of gloom and doom, Rei Kawakubo’s counterintuitive response was to roll out a set full of big balls of enjoyable.
For Spring 2024, Kawakubo confirmed off her playful aspect with multi-colored, bubbly material sculptured appears to be like. Patterns ranged from neon graphics to Hawaiian hibiscus prints. The gathering was a shocking show of Kawakubo’s creative imaginative and prescient and craftsmanship.
FINDING THE LIGHT
Rick Owens is one other designer who is thought for his avant-garde and edgy type, typically impressed by subcultures and dystopian themes. However for Spring 2024, Owens confirmed his softer aspect by enjoying with colours starting from deep reds and mauve-ish pinks. It was a refreshing tackle Owens’ regular goth-like aesthetic.
Appears to be like ranged from peak-shouldered shrunken leather-based bike jackets to billowing parachute like capes. Owens additionally featured loads of slim, lengthy skirts with ultra-high waists, in addition to round pouf attire which have been oh so whimsical.
THE GREAT TRANSFORMER
Maison Margiela is likely one of the most avant-garde and influential vogue homes on the planet, recognized for its deconstructed and reconstructed clothes, typically enjoying with the notions of identification and anonymity. Its spring 2024 assortment was a daring exploration of dualities and transformation, creating a shocking visible affect and a profound emotional expression. The gathering was designed by John Galliano, who can also be the artistic director of the home, and who’s extensively thought to be one of the authentic and visionary designers of our time.
Galliano is a grasp of enjoying with the juxtaposition of classic impressed items, corresponding to bodices, linings, and petticoats and deconstructing them as much as create his beloved avant-garde appears to be like.
REMIXING THE CODES
Yohji Yamamoto is one other one of many pioneers of avant-garde vogue, and his newest assortment was no exception. The designer has been creating his experimental fashions for over 40 years and not too long ago acknowledged in an interview with Vogue that “he hates wanting again to his personal work.”
For Spring 2024 Yamamoto appears to be like to the nice designers of the previous for inspiration, citing Chanel, Givenchy, and Balenciaga. He mentioned he wished to look at and remix their codes in his distinct method. Appears to be like ranged from restrained black attire over white shirts to deconstructed frocks. Yamamoto’s assortment was completely in black with a pop of white sprinkled all through. However the darkness showcased Yamamoto’s creations brilliantly, as appears to be like have been layered with pleats and tucks creating origami-like quantity that was a shocking show of Yamamoto’s creative imaginative and prescient and craftsmanship.
SARAH BURTON TAKES HER FINAL BOW
The home of Alexander McQueen has at all times been recognized for its modern and futuristic designs, typically pushing the boundaries of vogue and know-how. Its spring 2024 present was artistic director Sarah Burton’s remaining assortment for the home. “This assortment is impressed by feminine anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, the blood purple rose, and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and highly effective artist who refused ever to compromise her imaginative and prescient,” she wrote within the press assertion. “The present is devoted to Lee Alexander McQueen, whose want was at all times to empower ladies, and to the fervour, expertise, and loyalty of my staff.”
Burton additionally paid tribute to Britain and the nationwide flower of England, the purple rose. The flower motif made its mark on a number of attire. The artistic director was additionally impressed by textile sculptures of Abakanowicz, a feminist artist from Poland, whose types recommend the embrace of motherhood, vaginas, consolation, and safety.
From armored leather-based corsetry to robes that celebrated the feminine physique, the gathering was a exceptional demonstration of Burton’s imaginative and prescient and ability. We’re all questioning what Burton will do subsequent. Keep tuned.
So, inform us, do your creations lean on the aspect of sultry and seductive, or do they lean in direction of avant-garde?